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Worktops
Kitchen
Bathroom
Accessories
Shower Panels
Sinks
Sinks |
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Preparation/installing your
laminate worktop
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Preparation ~ Before any work commences your new worktops need to acclimatise to the environment where they will be installed. You should lay them flat on bearers (50 x 50mm timber batons or similar) spaced at approximately 600mm in the room where they will be fitted for a minimum of 24 hours prior to installation. Any new plaster should be completely dry and the room should be at normal temperature (min of 17C). Do not lean the worktops against a wall as this will promote bowing. |
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Measuring and marking ~
If your new worktops are replacements for old worktops which are a good fit and can be removed intact, then it makes sense to use the old ones as templates for the new ones. If not you need to measure the lengths and widths carefully with a steel rule. If fitting between walls check the measurement where the back and front edges of the worktop will fit to make sure the angles are square. If not it is best to make stiff card templates and transfer the angles onto the worktops ready for cutting |
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Hand sawing ~ When using a hand saw always cut the worktops face uppermost and into the front edge. Use a fine toothed saw and start with the cutting angle almost vertical. When you have cleared the front edge lower the cutting angle to achieve a straight cut with minimum chipping. Only apply pressure on the downward stroke. |
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Power sawing ~ When using a jig saw or skill saw the worktop should be cut face down to prevent chipping. Cut into the front edge taking great care to avoid break-out. If in doubt cut the front edge carefully with a hand saw first. If you have a router it is best to cut the board slightly over-size and use the router to clean up the edge afterwards. |
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Cut outs for sinks and hobs ~ It is important that the corners of a cut-out are round and smooth to avoid stress cracking. Use a 10mm diameter drill bit to make a hole in each corner, then use a jig
saw to cut between them. The sink or hob should drop in easily with a gap of 2 - 3mm all round. Always seal the core board to prevent moisture ingress before fitting a sink.
When fitting a hob, heat resistant self-adhesive aluminium foil tape should be used round the cut-out. |
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Cut outs for pipework, etc ~ Use the same method described above to make the cut-out. When a square cut-out is required (e.g. To fit around boxed in pipework) make sure that a small radius (minimum 3mm) is left in the corner to avoid stress cracking. Seal the edges with silicone sealant, PVA adhesive (2 coats) or contact adhesive (2 coats) prior to installation. |
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Finishing cut edges ~ Laminate edging strip is included with most worktops at no extra cost. This edging must be applied with contact adhesive or a special double-sided tape designed for this purpose. If using contact adhesive apply one coat to the core material and allow it to dry. Cut the edging strip slightly over length then apply a further coat of adhesive to the core and the edging strip. When the adhesive is dry to the touch apply the edging strip to the core pressing it firmly into place. Give the adhesive time to harden before using a fine file to carefully file off any excess. |
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Jointing ~ If using Aluminium jointing strips seal the cut ends of the board with silicone sealant, PVA adhesive (2 coats) or contact adhesive (2 coats) before fitting. Professional mitre joints that bolt together must be cut using a router and jig. It is preferable to have this work carried out on site by a kitchen fitter, who can take account of walls that are out of square etc. If you do attempt this job yourself remember to take the direction of cutter rotation into account. |
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Fixing ~ Before you fix your new worktops into position check that the units are level and secure. Place the worktops on the units and check that there are no gaps underneath
that will deform the worktop when screwed down. When you have made all final adjustments use countersunk chipboard screws through the front rails of the units into the underside of the worktops, and metal L brackets at the rear. If there are no units under the worktops they should be fitted to 50 x 50 softwood batons affixed to the wall. Do not span greater than 1m without support at the front edge. |
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Dishwashers & other built-in appliances ~ All built-under appliances generate heat. Dishwashers also produce a lot of steam which can break down the bond between the laminate and the core and cause the core to swell. Most worktops have an excellent seal on the underside of the front edge but you should always take extra precautions in this vulnerable area. Most appliance manufacturers provide a protective plate which can be fitted to the underside of the worktop immediately over the appliance. If no plate is available use a sheet of heat resistant self-adhesive foil instead. |
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Splashbacks & Upstands ~ With the worktops in place the splashbacks and/or upstands can be measured, cut and fitted. Cut-outs in splashback panels for electrical sockets etc. should have rounded corners to avoid stress cracking. Exposed ends of panels can be finished neatly using a suitably sized tile trim, and you should allow for this when cutting the panels to size. If using splashbacks behind a hob make sure the minimum distance recommended by the manufacturer is observed. Upstands should be sealed to the rear of the worktop with silicone sealant to avoid moisture penetrating the core. This is particularly important behind sinks and hobs. |
After care tips for your worktops
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Heat ~ You should always protect your new worktop from hot utensils etc. by using heat resistant trivets or surface savers. Never take anything out of the oven or off the hob and place it directly on the surface of the worktop. Boiling water and cooking splashes will not harm your worktops, but should be wiped off as soon as possible. |
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Scratching ~ Your new worktops will withstand normal domestic use for many years to come, but you should always use chopping boards, bread boards etc. and never cut directly onto the surface. Also take care not to slide un-glazed crockery over the surface as this will cause unnecessary wear. |
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Staining ~ Laminate has good stain resistance and is unaffected by most foods, domestic cleaners, cosmetics and solvents. Foods with strong colours such as Curry, Beetroot Juice, Blackcurrant Juice, Red Wine and strong acid based cleaning or de-scaling products will stain the surface and should be wiped away immediately. Residual stains left after wiping can usually be removed by cleaning with a mild bleach solution. |
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Cleaning ~ All that is required to maintain your worktop is regular cleaning with a soft cloth and warm soapy water. Stubborn marks can often be removed with a cream cleaner such as Cif, but you should never use harsh abrasive cleaners or abrasive scouring pads as these will damage the surface. Stains that are ingrained into the texture of the laminate can be effectively removed using a nylon bristle nailbrush and a mild bleach solution. |
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Spills ~ Wipe up any spills immediately paying particular attention to dry thoroughly around the sink and over any joints. It doesn’t matter how well you have fitted your worktops, water will always find a way in to the core if it is left lying on the surface. |
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NEVER :
- Fit undermounted or Belfast sinks into any worktop with a chipboard core. Water
will always find a way in and the worktop will be ruined very quickly.
- Stand kettles, coffee machines, slow cookers etc. over a joint in a worktop.
- Use harsh chemicals on or near your worktops. Caustic cleaners, strong
bleaches, drain un-blockers and some hair dyes can all permanently damage
the surface of your worktop. If in doubt consult the manufacturer.
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Download this guide in PDF form :: Laminate
Worktop Colours |
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